Thursday, 29 August 2013

Summer Holidays

This might be my longest blog break ever - and now I've got so much to share I don't know where to start...but since this is essentially a diary I'll start with our summer holiday!
 We spent a couple of weeks in France on the Côte d'Azur. It's a favourite destination - mainly because it's incredibly beautiful and the weather is almost always hot. But also because we can get there easily on a cheap airline, the public transport system is excellent so we don't need to hire a car, and the combination of markets and little supermarkets on every corner mean self catering is not only straightforward - it's a pleasure. 
It's also a wonderful combination of exquisite old towns for me to wander around with my camera - and beaches for the boys.

Our apartment this year was on Boulevard Gambetta - in the Quartier des Musiciens. It's a 10 minute walk from the train station, 20 minutes from the old town and has a good range of patisseries and supermarkets nearby. It also has a famous yellow pizza van...which we frequented more than once!
 
2 boys appearing to be out in their pj's!!
It was a nice quiet area with some beautiful architecture and the apartment itself was lovely 
(link if interested)
  We spent as much time as we could get away with wandering around Nice...
  
admiring the architecture 
 
 
 
 
sampling the ice cream 
 
  stopping for coffee
 
visiting the flower market
seeking out crazy Theresa (at chez Theresa) for her infamous socca 
(a massive chickpea pancake) 
                                          
marvelling at the views from the top of Castle Hill
 smelling the soaps
 
a little mooching round the more interesting shops
photographing the beautiful colours
The old town is just gorgeous - although this was the first time we've been in August and it was incredibly busy! Much nicer in October.
 
 We caught a wedding procession
and watched the merry-go-round go round
Now the boys are older we did more travelling than usual - it usually involved a heated debate about why they didn't need an ipad for the journey before we set off (same reasons as the last time we had the same debate), but we generally managed to combine a mooch round a pretty town with an afternoon on the beach.

Our first trip was to Eze - a place that's been on my list for many years. You can easily get a bus to the old town - perched on a hill and pretty much unchanged since medieval days
source
It is a BEAUTIFUL place - completely beautiful. But just too many tourists. I know, ironic, but I'd like to go back next time we visit the area - wandering and photographing would be easier.
Being so popular it wasn't the sort of place that was offering up bottled water and ice cream - but we did find a wonderful little deli offering sandwiches at a reasonable cost. It was a tiny place - and they had used every nook and cranny - with cushions on stairs and crochet poufs scattered everywhere.
My photos really don't do Eze justice...
I had, of course, done LOADS of research about the area before we went - and knew you could walk from the hill top village down to Eze sur Mer - the beach. 'Combine the town and the beach' I had read. 'Takes roughly 45 minutes to get down the hill' I quoted. 
The sign at the top should have rung some warning bells...
So, in fashion flip flops and a pair of (beautiful) clogs we set off. I'm not kidding - it was a mountain, And it wasn't a walk, it was a trek.
I can almost read Cleggy's mind from here in this photo...and that trolley (full of beach towels!) he carried the whole way...2 hours
the views were nice...
 there was a fair amount of waiting for the crazy lady in clogs...
Here I think he is thinking 'stop taking bloody photos and HURRY UP'
but some sumptuous villas to lust after...
 
 and a nice quiet beach at the bottom!!
 We also took a trip to Menton to visit my old friend (from Monsoon days) Kerry who now lives there with her lovely husband Andrew and children Felix and Romey.
 We don't see each other often (funnily enough she doesn't holiday in Manchester!!) but always have plenty to catch up on.
She happened to have her teenage nieces and nephew staying with her at the same time - which was a massive bonus for my older boys in particular. We had only planned to go for a day but after some considerable nagging from all of them went back for another day later in the holiday.
Kerry's house is wonderful and has great views down to the sea. It was seriously hard not to wish I could swap houses with her!!
Just along from Menton is Italy! 
Ventimiglia is the first town over the border and has a famous Friday market.

all dresses 10 euros? how did I not come back with 20?
There were bags, gloves, scarves, wraps, food and drink galore - almost too much to choose from
 
Italy is so effortlessly cool
 
Unlike us...we hadn't bought the little red trolley with us so had no swimmers or towels. The boys were so hot they got in the sea in their pants...obviously no photos allowed on here!
  and I went home with this little number...poorly made and will probably run in the wash but TEN EUROS!!
My favourite place of ALL was Villefranche. I have told Cleggy I'm retiring there in a few years time - luckily he agrees.
We didn't have much time to wander - but spent a great afternoon on the beach
source
Apparently Madonna was on her yacht in the bay - but she didn't bother us!
On a Monday the flower market in Nice becomes an antiques market.
Of course you always see a MILLION things you want when you've got scant luggage allowance!!

Cutlery
glass and lace
glass bottles
creepy dolls
typewriters
cameras, phones, radios....
I came home with three small things:
 
We did a little normal shopping too - a couple of thank you gifts to buy and the obligatory french bag!!
and LOTS of window shopping!
                                             
 Meanwhile the boys did lots of this
How long until we can go to the beach?
There was LOTS to love. I loved these dresses
 and I thought Cleggy would rock this look:
(he reckoned he could indeed rock it in the côte... but not back in suburban Manchester)
I did (of course) find time to do a little crochet:
a jar for Kerry
and a blanket for a friend's baby
Towards the end of the fortnight we visited Cap d'Ail.
By now I'd all but given up on the old town mooching and just went for the beach! 
(after some extensive research!) I plumped for Mala beach. It was a walk along the coast from the station but well worth it. Amazingly clear water and a lovely feel.
We mostly ate in the apartment (the Teen even cooked us a meal!) but couldn't resist a meal at La Voglia in Nice old town.
The portions are legendary - that lasagne would feed all five of us back home!  
Kenzie LOVES his muscles
...and for once there was no arguing. Our boys have always got on really well, but over the last few months as the Teen has become more hormonal it's been much trickier. 
Big and little are particularly fractious!
                                         
We were also really chuffed to find we were in Nice for the Fête de l’Assomption. We couldn't find out much about it beforehand but decided to take a wander down to the sea front at about 9pm. And we were so glad we did - the Promenade des Anglais was pedestrianised, bands playing everywhere and at 10 o'clock fireworks to music from boats lined up in the bay. It was ace. Even the Teen enjoyed it!
we managed to get a patch to sit on on the beach - it was heaving!
Kenzie and I took in a photographic exhibition - it was called 'women, muse and model' and was part of the summer of Matisse. 
It gave us lots to discuss - not least because of the amount of flesh on show!!
 Kenzie's favourite photograph was this one
(I love it too)
Subway Angel by Jean-Baptisete Mondino
and my favourtie was this one called
"Santa Monica, California, 1955" 
but known as 'California Kiss'.
by Elliott Erwitt
Overall it was a holiday to remember - and I still don't think we've had enough of that coastline. 
On the last evening Alfie revealed he had had enough of us by the end of the fortnight (ditto!!)
I love this photo - I caught it when I was out for a run in the rain....you read right!!!
No post about France would be complete without some doors:
and a family photograph!
I already miss being all together...and I miss the little red trolley!
But feel blessed to have had such a lovely time! Fee x

19 comments:

  1. Wow Fee, what a fantastic post. You don't post that often but when you do it's like us readers have to settle back in the comfy chair and enjoy the ride. The photo's are quite amazing, as photography is my main love I fully appreciate your images. The retro feel of the merry-go-round is superb, and the family photo sums up the happy feel of this post. xxxxxxxxx

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  2. Amazing :-) Thank you so much for sharing your wonderful vacation. You take stunning photos.
    Blessings :-)

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  3. Sigh, you will never have enough of that coast!
    I love Eze too, the day we did the mountain we walked straight down under the railway and straight into the sea, shoes and all, it was so hot!
    You all obviously had an amazing time!
    V xxx
    P.S. We're going back for a week in October! ;)

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  4. Oh My Goodness Fee ..... what a fabulous holiday, and what a stunning area.
    I REALLY need to visit France right now!
    lots of love jooles xxx

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  5. What a truly lovely holiday you've had - thanks for sharing all your gorgeous pics... Oh and welcome back to Blighty!
    Xx

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  6. Ooh lala! Amazing photographs of a fabulous holiday ... just looking at them gives me the holiday vibe! My favourites are the merry-go-round (so kitsch and colourful) and the stack of soaps (I can smell them from here). The dress is so pretty ... I'm sure you could reinforce the seams or something (says she, who can hardly thread a needle) to make it a bit more durable, but I bet it washes like a dream and lasts and lasts ...

    Welcome home, you've been missed!

    Love Claire xxx

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  7. Mmm that sounds amazing! Love to see all of you so happy and sunny, and happier and sunnier, and well, those flip-flops ;-)
    Now good luck with adjusting to normal.... (flip-flops again? I'm wearing mine right now, just because I don't want summer to end and roomshoe season to start)
    Love! R.

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  8. Wowzers. Love your pics. Amazing. Must go to Nice some time you make it look so wonderful. I feel I should also add that the summer holidays 2013 were the holidays that you *almost* met me!!! Hahahaha!!
    Hope next week and the return to normality go smoothly for you all!
    Much love
    Erin x

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  9. I SO love your blog and for me on this side of the globe it has been a particularly challenging morning and so I was quite happy (read thrilled) to see a post from Chipper Nelly in my blog feed. Your description of descending that hill in clogs and being able to read your husband's mind whilst he was carrying that little red trolley with the beach towels... it was better than any amount of any type of mood lifting medication! I am just about falling off my chair laughing... thank you Fee!

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  10. What a wonderful holiday!! The area is lovely and I would love to walk around all the old towns.

    Hugs,
    Sharon

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  11. Fee, thank you so very much for this fabulous holiday reporting. You've reminded me of what a wonderful time I had ages ago visiting Nice and Cannes. The light and the colors are magnificent there, and I loved the relaxed atmosphere (I was there at Eastertime...think it was April, so not too many crowds. I particularly remember visiting Matisse's house up in the hills, walking past flowering fruit trees, and finally "getting" Matisse's artistry. Ever since that trip, he's remained a favorite of mine.

    It's clear that your family did have a great time, with opportunities to explore new areas as a group and as "sub-groups" too. You've encouraged me to think about a return trip myself.

    Best wishes.

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  12. Aaaaah! What a wonderful post, Fee! Thank you for sharing your holiday adventures with us. I think I now have a new destination to add to my 'to visit' list! :-)
    Carly
    x

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  13. what an amazing holiday and such lovely photos to remember it for years to come, ali

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  14. Thanks for sharing your amazing holiday with us Fee, I loved all the photos. You obviously had a brilliant time with the men in your life ;0) I did smile at your comments about your teen....it's a phase isn't it. We did our last holiday with our lad when he was 17..I think the time comes when you just want such different things from your holiday. Enjoy the times while they last, they are great memories. Not sure if you know but my darling girlie is now 30 weeks pregnant, yes I am going to be a Nana! Now that is a whole new era for us ;0 Hugs, Jane x

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  15. Love your pics. We also went to South of France this year and stayed in a lovely apartment with a beautiful view over Villefranche. You're right, it's gorgeous.

    I didn't particularly love Nice, I have to admit, it was okay but nothing special. I did however adore Monaco! We got the train from Ventimiglia over to Italy for the second week of our holiday!

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  16. Hello lovely ... I've been meaning to comment here all week ... and what can I say, other than WOW! This has to be the most splendiferous holiday post ever!!

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  17. I want to go right now and stay for a month! How on earth you have managed to produce so many totally fab photos I don't know. And lucky you for meeting Annie. I have been plotting to for ages but haven't made it yet. Mmmm, maybe that means you are not that far away from me either...

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  18. Wow, what a fabulous post....can't get over the colour of th sea and sky! That old place on the top of th hill looks amazing...did you have to walk back up with all the clobber afterwards? My hubby's face says it all sometimes when I am half a mile behind takin pictures!

    Looks like you had a great happy holiday, it's rubbish when it comes to an end isn't it....lots of sunny memories for you and your boys though.

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  19. Such a lovely read and hilarious similarities! I spent a lot of time crocheting on the beach at Villefranche whilst the children played in the sea and my husband pretended I was quite normal in comparison to the cosmopolitan French! My teen boy, then 13 spent a lot of time complaining about the heat and the steps back up to the apartment, I am so impressed you did the walk down from Eze to the sea, that is amazingly impressive! Lovely memories :)

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I LOVE reading your comments!
fee x